Which pickleball paddle is right for me?

I came to pickleball from tennis, and the first thing I learned is that the paddle matters more than I expected. The second thing I learned is that the paddle wall at the store is confusing. Every paddle says it has more power, more control and more spin. They can't all be the best at everything.

The good news: you only need to understand a handful of things to narrow it down. This guide walks through each one. When you're done, you can jump into the PickleBoom Paddle Finder and filter by what you learned.

1. Start with one question: power or control?

Almost every paddle choice comes back to this. A paddle that hits hard with little effort usually gives up some touch on soft shots. A paddle that's easy to dink and reset with usually gives up some pop. Neither is better. It's about how you like to play.

Think about how you play now, or how you played your old racket sport. Do you like to end points fast, or do you like to outlast people? Use that to pick a lane:

2. Paddle shape

Pickleball paddles all fit inside the same size limit, so a paddle that's longer has to be narrower. That trade-off is what shape is all about.

Widebody (also called standard or square)

Wider face, shorter length. The sweet spot is bigger and more forgiving, and the paddle feels quick in your hand because there's less weight out at the tip. It's the easiest shape to learn with and a favorite for players who live at the kitchen line.

Elongated

Longer and narrower. You get more reach, and the extra length puts more weight toward the tip, which adds power on drives and serves. The trade-off is a smaller sweet spot and a paddle that can feel slower in fast hand battles. Elongated paddles often come with longer handles, which two-handed backhand players like.

Hybrid

Right in between. A little longer than a widebody, a little wider than an elongated. If you can't decide, hybrid is a safe middle-of-the-road choice.

Edgeless

Some paddles skip the edge guard around the rim. They feel clean at the net and give you a touch more usable face. The downside is that the edge is less protected, so chips and cracks from hitting the ground or your partner's paddle are more likely.

See widebody paddles See hybrid paddles See elongated paddles

3. Core thickness: 13-14mm vs 16mm

Inside nearly every modern paddle is a honeycomb core, usually made of polymer (a tough plastic). The thickness of that core has a big effect on how the paddle plays, often bigger than the face material.

Many popular paddles come in both 14mm and 16mm versions of the same model, so you can pick the shape you like and then choose the core.

See 16mm paddles See 14mm paddles

4. Weight

Most adult paddles weigh somewhere between about 7 and 8.5 ounces. That sounds like a small range, but you'll feel it after two hours of play.

• Lighter (under about 7.6 oz): fast hands at the net, less arm fatigue. You do more of the work to generate power, and the paddle can feel less stable on hard shots.
• Midweight (about 7.6 to 8.2 oz): where most paddles land. A good balance of stability, power and speed.
• Heavier (over about 8.2 oz): more stable and more power with less swing, but slower to react and more work for your arm over a long session.

Where the weight sits matters too. Two paddles can weigh the same, but the one with more weight toward the tip (often elongated paddles) will feel heavier when you swing it.

One more thing: add-ons change the weight. An overgrip adds a little weight in the handle, and some players add lead tape to the edge to tune balance. Small changes, but you can feel them.

5. Grip size and handle length

Grip size

Grips usually run from about 4 inches up to about 4 1/2 inches around. A grip that's too big makes it harder to use your wrist for spin and quick angles. A grip that's too small makes you squeeze harder, which can tire your forearm.

A simple check: hold the paddle in your normal grip. You should be able to slide the index finger of your other hand into the gap between your fingertips and your palm. No room means it's too small. Lots of room means it's too big.

Handle length

• Shorter handles (around 5 inches or less): quicker in your hand and usually paired with a bigger face. Good for one-handed players who live at the net.
• Standard handles (about 5 to 5 1/2 inches): room for a choked-up grip and the occasional two-handed shot.
• Long handles (over about 5 1/2 inches): best for two-handed backhands and extra leverage on drives. Common on elongated paddles.

Tennis players coming over often like a slightly longer handle at first because it feels familiar. That's how I started.

6. Face material and grit

The face is the hitting surface on top of the core. It affects feel, power, spin and how long the paddle stays good.

• Fiberglass (sometimes called composite): flexes more, acts a bit like a trampoline, and gives easy power. Less common on today's premium paddles.
• Carbon fiber: stiff, with a solid, controlled feel and a consistent sweet spot. Most of today's popular paddles use some form of carbon, often "raw" or textured carbon made for spin.
• Kevlar (aramid) and blends: very durable fibers, often mixed with carbon, aimed at players who want power and a face that holds up.

Grit and spin

Spin comes from texture. Some paddles have grit painted or sprayed on, which can wear smooth over months of play. Others have texture built into the face material itself, which usually lasts longer. If spin matters to you, look for a textured or raw carbon face.

7. How it's built: classic, thermoformed and foam

You'll see words like "Gen 2" and "thermoformed" in paddle descriptions. Here's what they mean.

• Classic construction: the face is glued onto the core and an edge guard goes around the outside. Softer feel, plenty of control, usually more affordable. Great for learning.
• Thermoformed (unibody): the paddle is heat-molded as one piece, often with foam injected around the edges. The result is stiffer, more stable on off-center hits and generally more powerful. Many of today's best sellers are built this way.
• Foam-core and newer designs: some brands now use foam cores or specially designed honeycomb to add more spring. These play differently from a standard paddle, so they're a great candidate to try before you buy.

Newer isn't automatically better for you. A softer, classic paddle can actually help a newer player learn touch, while a stiff thermoformed paddle can make an experienced player's game better.

8. Picks by skill level

Just starting out

Go for forgiveness: a 16mm core, widebody or hybrid shape and a midweight paddle. You'll miss the sweet spot a lot early on, so a bigger, more stable face helps. Don't spend top dollar until you know how you like to play.

Intermediate (the biggest group of players)

This is where the power-or-control question really matters. If your dinks and resets keep floating up, stay with 16mm. If you're comfortable at the kitchen and want to finish points, try a 14mm or an elongated shape. This is also the level where trying a few paddles pays off the most.

Advanced

You probably know what you like. Most advanced players fine-tune with a specific core thickness, a handle length that fits their backhand and small weight adjustments. Spin and stability tend to matter most at this level.

Coming over from tennis

Your instinct will be to swing big. A paddle that's a little more controlled (16mm, hybrid) can help you learn the soft game that wins points in pickleball, while a longer handle keeps it familiar. Once your dinks are steady, you can move toward more power.

Playing in tournaments

Make sure your paddle is approved by USA Pickleball. Sanctioned tournaments check, and you don't want your paddle turned away before your first match. USA Pickleball keeps the official list on its equipment site, and approved paddles carry a "USA Pickleball Approved" mark.

9. How much should I spend?

Here's an honest breakdown:

• Under about $100: fine for trying the sport. Many are classic construction with painted grit, so they may lose spin and pop sooner.
• About $100 to $200: where a lot of rec players land. You'll find solid carbon paddles from well-known brands, and sales are common.
• About $200 to $300: the latest designs and top-line models. Worth it if you play several times a week and know what you like. Not necessary to enjoy the game.

A paddle you play three or four times a week will slowly lose some pop and spin. Many regular players replace theirs every year or so. If the face is cracked, the core rattles or there's a dead spot that sounds different, it's time.

Browse all paddles by price See paddles on sale

10. Quick answers

Is a more expensive paddle going to make me better?

Not by itself. The right paddle makes good shots a little easier and mistakes a little smaller. Playing more, and with different people, does more for your game than any paddle. That's a big reason I built PickleBoom: to help people find more places and people to play with.

14mm or 16mm if I'm brand new?

16mm. It's more forgiving and helps you keep the ball low.

Does the brand matter?

Less than the specs. Shape, core thickness, weight and grip size will tell you more about how a paddle plays than the name on it.

What's the best way to choose?

Narrow it down with this guide, then hit with one or two before you buy if you can. How a paddle feels in your hand is the final test.

Written by Gregg at PickleBoom, Mount Dora, FL. Specs and ranges in this guide are general and vary by brand and model, so always check the details of the specific paddle. I'm a Royal Pickleball ambassador; if you buy through links on PickleBoom, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.